The future is now - and bright - at the Marina Deck

By Christopher Tagle

The future is now - and bright - at the Marina Deck

Dennis Kalchthaler has found his niche.

When he took over the Marina Deck last year from Frank Hanna's enterprises, he immediately added a few of his own dishes to the existing menu, making for the promise of a bright future.

The future is NOW. Give that man a year, and just see what he does.

The prime rib cuts are among the best anywhere around. I just wanted to say that up front; we'll revisit that later. At any rate, from the steaks to the seafood, there are loads of pleasant surprises in store for the family or food connoisseur.

Our party of four was seated beside one of the many sliding-glass doors that make up the walls of the Marina Deck, located on the bay on Dorchester Street. Water laps right up to the window and, indeed, underneath the very deck on which we sat. The sun played in and out of the clouds as it began its final decent behind the horizon, and the scads of hanging plants on the ceiling gave the dining area a tropical feel.

Our server, Linda, approached us with a broad grin. In retrospect, I think she was continually smiling because she knew the treat for which we were in store.

Since I had warned Dennis of our intent to dine there, he had already planned out part of the meal for us. Our drinks were served, followed shortly by four heaping bowls of soup: two French onion and two cream of crab. We shared the soups with each other, and we all gave them rave reviews.

"The onion soup is exceptional," said my friend, who is experienced in the restaurant industry and has been cooking for 14 years. "The way the cheese is melted on this bread makes it taste even better."

Michi and Elli also raved about their thick, lumpy cream of crab soup. It was seasoned perfectly - so much so that my mouth is still watering as I write this.

One of the holdovers from the Hanna's days is the bread that put Hanna's on the map. Coconut and blueberry muffins; tender, moist raisin bread topped with icing, and even-more tender ryes are all big hits and a precursor to a marvelous meal.

Dennis next surprised us with appetizers. I was astounded by the portabello mushroom stuffed with crab imperial. What a unique idea, I thought, then suddenly remembered that the other appetizer, a soft pretzel topped with creamy crab dip spiced to perfection, is actually one of Dennis' original brain children.

That idea has been picked up by restaurants around town now, and you can now find them almost anywhere you go. Just remember whose idea it was, and logically where it is best.

And the portabello mushroom - an item that Dennis has not officially added to the menu, but one he is playing with - was a real treat. The mushroom was huge and fat, making for a nice base for the sweet crab imperial, a concoction that is not overspiced so as not to get in the way of the taste of the crabmeat. Together, it creates a truly unique taste experience.

Next came salads of all kinds - spinach, garden and Caesar. There's also a fourth choice: the tropical salad, a blend of shrimp, mandarin oranges, pineapple chunks and greens, topped off with a honey mustard dressing. I had requested that same honey mustard dressing for my salad and highly recommend it.

As we enjoyed the bay view while awaiting our entrees, Dennis pointed out the red and green lights on the outside deck, so that boaters can dock safely. "Boater-friendly," I scribbled in my notes.

And family-friendly, too. Dennis has transformed the back dining room into a kiddie room, complete with a TV, 30 Disney movies, an electric hobby horse, blocks, cars and other toys, and a staff of babysitters to watch the kids so their parents can dine in peace. Dennis says, "The kids' slushies on the menu are always big sellers."

Of all the treats we had that night, our biggest ones were still to come. Because all the beef that Dennis serves is certified Angus, we opted for the prime rib and New York strip. Michi ordered flounder, and I chose the barbecue shrimp entree.

The prime rib, however, really stole the show. The queen-cut beauty, an 8- to 10-ounce number, looked closer to a pound. The cut was a one-of-a-kind, marbleized goody, and I don't think prime rib can get any more tender.

Michi said her flounder was delicious; it flaked apart under the slightest pressure from her fork, and it tasted of perfect buttery-lemon goodness.

Elli's New York strip was yet another show-stopper: seasoned and char-broiled to perfection.

Finally, we come to the barbecue shrimp. Served atop a bed of wild rice, 14 shrimp on two skewers tempted me with a sweet and tangy barbecue aroma. While Dennis said that he considers the wild rice a "garnish," I would say that the rice is one of the best parts of the dish.

We topped off our wonderful evening with a slice of Key lime pie, AUTHENTIC Key lime pie, straight from Key West, Fla. The tangy lime filling mixed well with the subtle graham cracker taste of the crust.

The Marina Deck is officially on my list of recommended restaurants, thanks to Dennis' mastery of the kitchen.

And now he's proven himself to be a master of the entire restaurant.

-- Christopher Tagle

The Marina Deck is located on Dorchester Street and the bay, Ocean City. 410-289-4411.